As promised, the full details of my DIY tall garage cabinet are finally ready! It took me over a year and a half to put this together for you all because life happened, and I also wanted to ensure that everything I provided was as detailed as possible, allowing you to easily replicate this garage storage build yourself.

This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.

The plan is to give our entire garage a complete makeover, which we are nowhere near done with two years later. We started with the biggest part of this project, building a tall cabinet to get everything off the floor and organized. You can see part 1 of the garage makeover here, part 2 here. As we work to finish this complete DIY storage cabinet, and garage makeoverI will post more details here and on my YouTube channel.

My initial plan to organize our garage was to purchase garage cabinets at my local hardware store. However, I found that these cabinets were expensive and limited in size. That’s when I decided to build my own.

Before building these cabinets, I spent hours on Google, YouTube, and Pinterest trying to figure out how I was going to build these tall cabinets. Turns out there wasn’t much information on building tall custom garage cabinets, so I started measuring and designed a 3D plan of how I wanted the garage to look like using the Live Home 3D app.

Before we start...

First, I want to mention that there are many ways to build cabinets, but I chose this approach because the cabinets are for the garage. I didn’t feel they needed to be as perfect as if I were building kitchen cabinets or cabinets for inside the house.

I opted to construct the cabinets using the wall as the ‘back’ of the cabinets. This means I didn’t build separate cabinet boxes first and then install them together. Instead, I built them directly around the wall. This choice may have made my life a bit harder, but, as I mentioned before, I had no idea what I was doing—I was figuring this out as I was building. I’ll share with you all the mistakes I made that you should avoid.

Some details about my cabinets

Height: 86 inches

Width: 149 inches

Depth: 19 inches

Before You Get Started on Your Garage Cabinets

I recommend you read through this blog post and / or watch the YouTube Video before you get started.

NOTE: Your garage floor is likely to be sloped. In such a case, you have two options:

Either use shims (place them between the base frame and the top of the base) to raise the base on the lower side.
Cut the vertical 2×4 on the front cabinet frame longer for the lower side. I opted for this option, because my garage had a slight slope, less than an inch off.

Decide on Cabinet Location & Locate the Studs

One crucial step when anchoring anything to the wall is finding the studs*.

After determining the location for your cabinets, use a stud finder for this task. I initially used the Zircon stud finder during the cabinet construction. However, I now prefer the stud finder from Kreg Tools. Once you’ve located the studs, mark them with painter’s tape.

I recommend adjusting the position of your cabinet if necessary, ensuring that at least one side (either left or right) is anchored on studs. In our case, the left side of our cabinet is directly on studs, while the right side is not.

*Studs are vertical pieces of wood, usually 2×6, that support the frame of your home. They are typically spaced 16-24 inches apart, and you can find them right behind the drywall. Drywall alone is not a very strong or sturdy material, so anything heavy anchored solely on drywall will most likely fall.

Trace Your Cabinet on the Wall with Painter's Tape

If you are using different measurements than I am, decide on your own measurements and mark them on the wall using painter’s tape.

I determined the measurements for each compartment based on what I planned to store in the cabinet.

Materials

Supplies

Screws

Pocket hole screws

1 inch pocket hole screws
1-1/4 inch pocket hole screws
1-1/2 inch pocket hole screws
2 inch pocket hole screws -you will need (2) boxes for 50 count
2-1/2 inch pocket hole screws

Nails

Other supplies

Painting supplies

Tools

Stud finder
Drill
Drill bit
Spade drill bit
Kreg rip cut
Circular saw
Miter Saw
Table Saw (If you have a kreg rip cut guide and a Circular saw you do not need a table saw)
Brad Nailer
Leveler
Laser level (optional)
Speed square
90 degree clamp (this is the one I used to build the rolling cart, since then I have purchased these corner clamps that I prefer them
Pocket hole jig
Clamps

Time to Start Building the Cabinets!

Step 1 - Build The Rolling Cart

I decided to build the rolling cart first so that I could then construct the cabinet around it. This approach was more convenient for me, eliminating the struggle of trying to build a rolling cart to fit into the cabinet.

Step 1a - Cut Pieces for Rolling Cart Frame

Use a table saw or a circular saw with a rip cut guide, to cut (4) pieces of the 1/2 plywood to the size shown in the pdf guide.

Make pocket holes on both ends of the smaller pieces using a pocket hole jig.

Drill 15 holes on the front and back piece for the dowels using a 1/2 inch spade drill bit for the outer dowels and 1/4 inch spade drill bit for the middle dowels.

Space them according to the measurements shown in the PDF guide. Ensure even spacing by stacking and clamping the pieces together, then drill through both pieces simultaneously. The spacing shown in the guide, ensures that standard spray paint can sizes will fit in each compartment.

Step 1b - Build the Rolling Cart Frame

Start with the top and assemble the frame by connecting the shorter piece with the longer piece using wood glue and 1-1/4 inch pocket hole screws. Use a speed square to ensure that all your corners are squared.

Note that the bottom shelf needs to be attached 2.75 inches above the edge of the long piece of the 3/4 plywood, as shown in the diagram below.

Step 1c - Cut Pieces for Rolling Cart Shelves

Usr a table saw or a circular saw with a rip cut guide, to cut (5) pieces of the 1/2 plywood, as well as (2) additional pieces for the last shelf. Make pocket holes on both ends of the shelves, using a pocket hole jig. These pocket holes should be done at the bottom of each shelf.

Step 1d - Attach Shelves to Rolling Cart

Attach all (5) shelves using wood glue and 1-1/4 inch pocket hole screws. Space the shelves based on the measurements shown in the diagram on the detailed PDF.

Step 1e - Attach Dowels to Rolling Cart

Use either a circular saw or miter saw to cut (10) 1/2 inch dowels and (5) 1/4 inch dowels to 16.75 inches. Put the rolling cart on its side on a flat surface, feeding the dowel through each hole made in step 1a. Add wood glue to the end to secure the dowels in place.

Step 1f - Attach Bottom Shelf Side Panels

Attach the (2) 1/2 inch plywood pieces cut in step 1c to each side of the rolling cart’s bottom shelf.

Use a brad nailer with 1-inch brad nails to nail them to the front and back panel of the rolling cart, as shown in the diagram below.

Alternatively, you could glue this piece with wood glue, instead of using brad nails.

Step 1g - Add the Casters

Attach the (4) casters to the bottom of the rolling cart using 1-inch screws. Ensure you use rigid casters that don’t swivel.

Step 1h - Add Front Faux Cabinet Frame Panel

The purpose of this panel is to make the rolling cart resemble a cabinet door. This panel will be painted black, matching the cabinet, to create the appearance of the bottom of the cabinet frame.

Use a table saw or a circular saw with a rip cut guide to cut (1) piece of the 5mm plywood. Attach the front panel to the front of the rolling cart using liquid nails.

See how to install the rolling cart door in step 13a

Step 2 - Build the Cabinet Base

Make sure to use pressure-treated wood. I didn’t use pressure-treated wood, but that’s something I should have used when placing wood directly on concrete.

Why use pressure-treated wood?

Pressure-treated wood is primarily used for outdoor and structural applications where the wood will be exposed to moisture, insects, and decay. It’s not typically recommended for indoor use; however, using pressure-treated wood on the concrete for garage cabinets can be advantageous to protect them from moisture and enhance durability.

I didn’t think about using pressure-treated wood for my cabinets. If I had to do this over again, I would have used pressure-treated wood. However, it’s been almost 2 years since I built mine without using pressure-treated wood, and I have seen no sign of rot.

Step 2a- Bottom of the Base

Use either a circular saw or miter saw to cut 2x4x12 treated wood to the lengths shown in the detailed cut list.

Lay out the pressure-treated 2×4 as shown in the picture below. Use a drill and drill bit to pre-drill holes, then assemble the base using 3-inch screws.

You can use a 90 degree clamp to hold the corners together if you have one, I did not have one at the time so I didn’t use one.

Step 2b - Top of the Base

Using a table saw or a circular saw with a rip cut guide, cut the 3/4 plywood to the size shown in the pdf guide.

I did not have a table saw or a circular saw at the time, so I used a circular saw with a rip cut guide as well as a 2 inch thick insulation foam board in order to rip the sheet of plywood, as you can see in the picture above.

Next secure the sheet of plywood to the assembled base from step 2a using your brad nailer and 1 1/4 nails.

Step 3 - Build Back Frame of the Cabinet

Step 3a - Cabinet Back Frame - Top & sides

Using the 2x4x12 wood, attach it horizontally to the back wall, positioning it at the top, 82.5 inches off the ground. Secure it to the wall 3-inch screws to mount it securely to the wall, making sure to screw into the wall studs for stability. To ensure it’s level, you can use a leveler or laser.

For the sides, use either a circular saw or miter saw to cut 2x4x8 treated wood (use treated wood for the side because it is directly on the concrete) to the lengths shown in the detailed cut list.

Remember, for the sides they are each a different height. One will be positioned under the horizontal 2×4, and the other will be on the side of the horizontal 2×4. The reason for this is that the longest 2×4 I could find is 144 inches, but I wanted my cabinet to be 147.5 inches long.

Step 3b - Cabinet Back Frame - Middle

I added the back frame middle pieces after installing the front frame, but it would have been easier for me to do this before. You can see in the diagram below how it looks like adding the middle pieces before the front frame.

Use either a circular saw or miter saw to cut (5) pieces of the 1x2x8 to the lengths shown in the detailed cut list.

Use a pocket hole jig to create pocket holes on both ends of the (5) 1×2.

Attach it to the top 2×4 using 2-inch pocket hole screws, and then attach it to the base with 1-1/4 inch pocket hole screws.

I opted for a 1×2 on the back middle portion of the cabinet to save money and because I didn’t think it was necessary to use something as heavy as a 2×4.

I determined the compartment spacing based on what I intended to store in each section. So, if you have specific items in mind for these cabinets, measure to ensure they fit, and adjust the placement of the 1×2 accordingly if needed.

Step 4 - Build the Cabinet Front Frame

Use either a circular saw or miter saw to cut 2×4 to the length specified in the detailed cut guide (there will be a total of 15 pieces).

Next, use a pocket hole jig to create pocket holes on both pieces as illustrated in the detailed plan.

Begin with the top and bottom side pieces, and secure it with 2-1/2 inch pocket hole screws.

Assemble the front frame on the floor according to the image below, using the other 2×4, with 2-1/2 inch pocket hole screws.

Attach the front frame to the the side 2×4 using 2-1/2 inch pocket hole screws.

Attach the front frame to the the base using 1-1/2 inch pocket hole screws.

Add 2 extra 2×4 pieces to each side for extra support using 2-1/2 inch pocket hole screws.

Step 5 The Middle Panels

Step 5a - Cut the Plywood for Panels

These panels will be separating each cabinet compartment.

Using a table saw or a circular saw with a rip cut guide, cut (5) 3/4 plywoods to the measurements specified in the detailed guide.

Next, use a pocket hole jig to create pocket holes on all 4 sides of each 3/4 plywood.

Step 5b- Attach Panels to the Frame

Use 2 inch pocket hole screws to attach the 3/4 plywood to the back and front frame. Use 1-1/4 inch pocket hole screws to attach the 3/4 plywood to the base of the cabinet.

Refer to the detailed guide for instructions on aligning the panels with the front frame for each compartment.

How I divided my compartments from left to right:

Compartment #1

Rolling cart spray paint organizer

Compartment #2

Storage boxes for hardware
Pull-out pegboard tool organizer

Compartment #3

(4) Shelves
- Paint & painting supplies

Compartment #4

(1) Shelf
- Outdoor chairs
- Wet/dry vacuum

Compartment #5

(3) Shelves
- Gardening supplies
- Car supplies

Compartment #6

Large gardening tool

Step 5c - Add Top Support to Panels

Use either a circular saw or miter saw to cut (5) pieces of 2×4 to the length specified in the detailed guide.

Using a pocket hole jig, make pocket holes on both ends of each pieces.

Each of these 2×4 pieces will go above each of the 3/4 panel that was just attached from step 5b. Secure them to the top front and back frame with 2-1/2 inch pocket hole screws.

Also secure each 3/4 panel to each supporting 2×4 using 2 inch pocket hole screws to attach each 3/4 panel to each 2×4 at the top.

STEPS 6-9 Will walk you through how to add the shelves.

You can follow my exact shelf placement and measurements or choose your own measurements based on what you will store in each compartment.

Before you install the shelf brackets and the shelves, apply a protective coating on the shelves. I used polycrylic in gloss finish. This will help protect the shelves from any spills as well as make it easier to clean them.

Also, as noted in Step 7b, brackets and shelves should be attached one shelf at a time, starting with the bottom shelf.

STEP 6 - Compartment #2 Shelves

Step 6a Cut 1x2 for shelves

Use either a circular saw or miter saw to cut (6) pieces of 1×2 to the length specified in the detailed guide.

Using a pocket hole jig, make 3 pocket holes on all of the (6) pieces (note that the pocket holes are done horizontally on these pieces).

Step 6b Attach 1x2 to Compartment #2

Attach the pieces on both sides of compartment #2 as shown in the picture below using 1-1/4 pocket hole screws. Use a leveler, to ensure each piece is straight.

To note, I decided on my measurements for this compartment and shelf placement based on these storage boxes linked here, that I intended to store there.

Use a clamp to hold each peace against the 3/4 panel in order to keep the 1×2 in place while attaching.

Step 7 - Compartment #3-#4 Shelves

You will repeat the same steps (a-c) for all shelves.

Below is a picture of how I decided to space my shelves, I spaced them based on what I decided to store in each compartment.

Space the shelves according to your preference or use the measurements I’ve provided in the detailed PDF.

Do not install brackets for all 4 shelves at once, or you will not be able to place the shelf on the bracket since the one above it will be in the way. Instead install one bracket and shelf at at time.

Step 7a Cut 1x2 & 3/4 Plywood

Use either a circular saw or miter saw to cut (16) pieces of 1×2, for 8 shelves.

Use a table saw or a circular saw with a rip cut guide, to cut a (8) 3/4 plywoods for the shelves.

quick tip graphic bright homewiththedaniels

Before you install the shelf brackets and the shelves, apply edgebanding to the shelves as well as a protective coating on the shelves. I used polycrylic linked here. This will help protect the shelves from any spills as well as make it easier to clean them.

Step 7b - Attach the Shelf Brackets

Starting with the bottom shelf, use 1-1/4 inch wood screws attach the 2 side pieces for the bottom shelf.

Optional: You can add an additional bracket at the back that you can drill into the wall for extra support if you will be storing heavy items on the shelf.

Step 7c - Add the Shelves

Place the 3/4 plywood shelf on top of the brackets. You can nail the shelf to the brackets if you’d like; however, I didn’t think it was necessary, it has been like this for 2 years with no issues.

Step 8 - Side Panels

Step 8a - Cut 3/4 Plywood

Using a table saw or a circular saw with a rip cut guide, cut (2) 3/4 plywoods to the measurements specified in the guide. These panels will go on the outer right and left of the cabinet.

Step 8a - Attach Side Panel

Use a Brad nailer and 1-1/4 inch brad nails to attach the 3/4 plywood to each sides of the cabinet ensuring the nail hits the 2×4.

Step 9 - Top of Cabinet

Step 9a - Cut 3/4 Plywood

Using a table saw or a circular saw with a rip cut guide, cut (2) 3/4 plywoods.

You do not want to use the full-length sheet of plywood (96 inches) is that you want the edge of the 3/4-inch plywood to lay on one of the top 2x4s so you have somewhere to secure the 3/4 plywood with nails.

Step 9b - Attach Top Panel

Starting with panel on the left side secure it to the 2x4s using Using a brad nailer and 1-1/4 inch brad nails. Secure the second panel to the right side to the 2x4s using Use a Brad nailer and 1-1/4 inch brad nails as well.

Step 10 - Paint

If you are planning on painting your cabinets, now is the time to do it. Don’t forget to use a primer before you paint.

I used Zinsser primer, for the paint I used Benjamin Moore’s Advance in the finish semi-gloss – color: Onyx

If you want a smoother finish on the front frame, you can either cut 3.5-inch wide strips of 4mm plywood to apply to the front frame or use wood filler to fill all the imperfections of the 2×4 on the front frame, as shown in the picture below.

Step 11 - Cabinet Doors

Step 11a - Cut 1/2 Plywood

Using a table saw or a circular saw with a rip cut guide, cut (6) 1/2-inch plywood pieces to the measurements specified in the PDF guide.

If you will be painting the doors, now is the time to apply edge banding, then prime and paint the doors.

Step 11b - Install the Doors

Using door hinges of your choice or the ones I have linked here and in the supply section of this guide, attach the hinges on (5) doors (except for the door that will be on the rolling cart), spacing them out according to the diagram in the PDF guide.

Step 12 - Rolling Cart Cabinet Doors

Use (2) 1 inch screws to secure the front panel to the rolling cart from the inside, both at the top and bottom.

Test it to ensure the rolling cart fits in the cabinet, then remove the screws, apply liquid nails, and screw it back in place with 1 inch screws, one at the top one in the center and one at the bottom

Step 13 - Cabinet Door Handles

Measure the placement of the door handles (I placed the door handles 30 inches from the top of the door).

Note that the rolling cart handle is centered and not toward the edge like the other doors.

I made my cabinet handles, you can see the instructions in this blog post here , as well as the YouTube video here.

Here are some similar ones if you don’t want to DIY your handles:

Option 1

Option 2

Step 14 - Pull Out Pegboard Tool Organizer

Step 14a - Cut the Wood Pieces

Using a table saw or a circular saw with a rip cut guide, cut the pegboard to the measurements specified in the detailed guide.

Use either a circular saw or miter saw to cut (5) pieces of 1×2 for the frame.

Using a pocket hole jig to make pocket holes on both ends of the (2) long pieces, as well as both ends of the shortest piece.

Step 14b - Assemble the Pegboard Frame

Attach the outer pieces of the frame using wood glue and 1 inch pocket hole screws.

Then attach the middle support piece also using 1 inch pocket hole screws.

Attach pegboard to the frame using (6) 3/4 inch screws.

Step 14c - Attach Drawer Slides

Attach the drawer slides to top and bottom of the assembled pegboard frame. Attach the pullout pegboard to the second compartment of the cabinet using the screws provided with the drawer slides.

How to Build Tall Garage Cabinet with Spray Paint Storage